Belstaff invited me to their very cool & stylish showroom to check out the fall / winter 11/12 menswear during Fashion Week.
The collection is divided into two concepts; on the one hand, Belstaff`s Urban Mobility range combines style with new, eco-friendly must-haves related to the growth of the new world.
On the other, Belstaff`s Dangerous World mood addresses a world which could go dangerously close to self-destruction.
Urban Mobility mixes functionality and technology to engage with society`s positive trends. Natural fabrics, like 100% wool flannel, have ultra-thin micro-porous coatings, making them waterproof, yet breathable.
Many garments are waterproof in their own right. They are made of new-generation high-tech fabrics, which Belstaff has developed in alliance with leading textile manufacturers.
The Dangerous World range sees raw-edged coats, pea-jackets with crepe leather trims and details such as the new "self-cut" buttonholes.
It also features rubber tyre-effect pieces (a Belstaff exclusive), Vintage padded jackets and waxed moleskin blazers and jackets.
The brand`s attention to detail is seen in oxidised buttons and zips and perfectly matched self-found fabric linings, crepe leather reinforcements and carefully executed washes.
The collection also features sheepskin garments, which blend perfectly into this mood.
Lastly, biker jackets galore in homage to the brand`s origins, but this time "hard vintage".
Belstaff weaves its magic again: a great respect for tradition and history combined with awareness of our changing times.
The Collection pays tribute to Nicole Farhi`s long-standing heritage, reinterpreting the House’s signature trademarks – soft construction, natural fabrics and iconic outerwear – into a new contemporary luxury for men.
Traditional British textures such as Donegal tweed, Houndstooth and Herringbone are worked unexpectedly with linen into outerwear and tailoring. Detailing takes its inspiration from the sartorial traditions of Saville Row, to create sharp silhouettes with a soft construction and continental styling.
Outerwear combines bonded leather with wool and dense linen, and is moulded into iconic shapes such as the crombie and the trench. The show opens with melton wool coats, over-laid with detachable parkas in soft stone leather and waxed charcoal linen. The technique of fusing fabrics is also used in a leather parka bonded with linen, linen knitwear with needle-punched wool, and cable knitted wool jumper and peacoat with technical interlining. Luxurious texture is created with cashmere, alpaca and leather knitwear in rich ones.
The colour palette, inspired by the figurative painter Egon Schiele, of grey, charcoal and black is punched with indigo and cassis, olive and tobacco.
It`s the first collection of Massimo Nicosia, who became Head of Menswear for the brand’s Nicole Farhi and Farhi by Nicole Farhi collections in december 2010. Previously, Massimo headed the Menswear collections at Pringle of Scotland and Alessandro Dell’Acqua.
Nicole Farhi said of the appointment, ‘I am delighted to have Massimo as part of the team. As an Italian, he will bring a continental element to the Menswear collection, which I am very excited about. He has a sensibility very close to mine and we really understand each other.’
‘I am thrilled to be starting this new venture with Nicole and the team’ said Massimo. ‘I look forward to working with a brand that has a strong heritage and is known for its understated richness, through luxurious fabrics and detailing. The new collection will be taking this forward by applying innovative techniques to natural fabrics and knitwear, and developing a sharp silhouette with a soft construction’.
An amazing collection, so chic, contemporary and wearable!
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Picture sources: My own pictures & Nicole Farhi Press
How do you like the collection? Are you as impressed with the amazing details as I am?
